September 11

As people in the United States are holding candlelight vigils, waving flags, and being angry that we've spent the past three years in useless war, Chileans, too, are recognizing September 11th.

On today's date in 1973, General Augusto Pinochet and the armed forces of Chile overthrew President Salvador Allende's Socialist government, replacing it with a military dictatorship which murdered some 3,000 opposition activists and detained/imprisoned/tortured some other 27,000. His rule lasted until 1990, when the citizens of Chile voted in the second plebiscite that he ordered for him to step down.

In a country so politically active, the anniversary of the military coup is marked with much discussion, protest, and remembrance. Surprisingly (from a US perspective), the years of dictatorship are not so clearly considered tragic as one might expect. Listening to the strong opinions of the people around me, I have been shocked to learn how deep the polarization goes.

On one side, many conservatives feel that Pinochet saved the nation from inevitable socialist ruin. Naming the long lines for food during Allende's presidency, the nationalization of major natural resources and big industries, and the high taxes on business, some people go as far as referring to the dictatorship as simply "military government," controlled by "my General Pinochet," amounting to "the second independence of Chile." These aren't radical conservatives, nor especially political individuals; these are the opinions and emotions of people all around me.

At the same time, one can walk down the street and see graffiti proclaiming President Allende, banners with his face, and groups of people protesting in his honor and memory. The rhetoric of these people, equally as common and active as the conservatives, generally matches the words used in the US to discuss this period of Chilean history: the dictator, military coup, overthrow of government. It's fascinating that years after creating such a dramatically tragic government, our society and government shares the language used by the most adamant opposition.

Then, again, there are those who say it is too early to properly judge this era of Chilean history. While I can see the validity in postponing judgment of the remaining neo-liberal fiscal policies, the system of education, and the privatization of many government services, it it impossible for me to truly comprehend the perspective that such a violent, anti-democratic change of regime and paradigm rescued this country.