Besos

First kisses are generally very telling of a relationship. In Chile, it's no different, except that first kisses are daily business.

The proper greeting here, between women and woman-to-man, is a single air-kiss to the right cheek. Cheeks should touch, but not bump, and a kissing noise should be made. If true affection is felt, one party may actually kiss the other's cheek. But not both at once, because then it would be a real kiss, not a greeting kiss. Ugh.

During the month I've been here, I've gotten much better at the Chilean cheek-kiss. With most of my close friends and my host family, I've achieved the perfect level of cheek-contact without bumper-cheeking (cheek-checking?) except once in a long while. With new friends, brand new acquaintances, or in special situations, however... let's just say it's the cheek-kiss equivalent of full on licking someone's chin en route to their mouth. For example, the dean of the university cheek-kisses, but the president of the university shakes hands. Try keeping that one straight as people are in and out of the mourning process of the loss of a friend. Also, one of my host brothers is a real cheek-kiss tease; after 4 pm, he usually goes for the forehead kiss instead. And I still have no grace when it comes to greeting combos; handshake-cheek-kiss and hug-cheek-kiss continue to be the most awkward 3 seconds of the day. The good news is, every day here is a new day for first kisses.